Wednesday, December 21, 2016

Winter Solstice

Today the sun rises at 8:39AM and sets at 5:02PM (This applies specifically to UB which likes 300km east of us. Our sunrise and set are a little earlier.) It is our shortest day, but nowhere near our coldest.  December hasn’t been that bad in the realm of Mongolian cold, but as I write this I have received a warning about extreme temperatures around Christmas, where night time temperature may drop to -50 degrees Celsius.  So… there’s that to look forward to.

Realistically it hasn’t been too bad. November was far colder than last year, but December warmed up a little and I don’t have much to complain about. Perhaps one gets used to the cold the second time around. I enjoy my brisk walks to school. I like the way the air feels around zero degrees Fahrenheit.  Regardless of my personal opinion, it is still freezing in Mongolia. The temperature dropped below freezing in mid-October, and we won’t see above freezing until maybe mid-March, but not consistently until the end of April.

The temperature in our apartment hovers around 60 degrees Fahrenheit, which is nice for wearing socks and pajamas all the time. Sometimes, I will look up and realize that the three of us, Sally, the cat, and I have conjugated unconsciously in the shadow of the radiator in our carpeted room,  she and I reading from our kindles, and he un-bashfully basking in the warmth of the radiator in what is sometimes the most undignified positions.  With our water heater that can warm 40 liters of water to near boiling, I have found true joy in taking a warm bath on those days when I just can’t stand cold feet anymore. 

In any event, life goes on, and the winter solstice while marking the colder days yet to come still brings hope, since from here on out Sally and I will only get more light.

December 21st is the true beginning of winter; it is now that the Mongolian explanation of winter of the nine sets of nine days begins. For more information on this unique explanation, consult an earlier post titled “It’s very cold outside” from December 22 of 2015.  


~Caleb 

Wonderful Taco Bowl!!

In Mongolia, one often has a driving desire for foods that are not easily attained.  My personal most craved food is Mexican. I often fantasize about the possibility of a Taco Bell opening in our small town.  With the exception of one Mexican restaurant in UB and the occasional quesadilla appetizer (also in UB), Mexican food is not to be found in this country. However, never fear PCVs, because sometimes in the darkness, light still perseveres, and in this Mexican void there is still taco seasoning (sold at Goodprice and Mercury Market…also only in UB), and where there is taco seasoning there is hope!!!
Sally and I love having taco bowls. I prefer this to tortillas because while flour tortillas are easy to make, they can still require a lot of time and work to produce. Our taco bowls currently involve five layers, Spanish rice, taco meat, salsa, cheese, and sour cream, but the beauty of a taco bowl lies in very easy alteration to personal taste, so yours could always include other layers!  
1.       Spanish Rice—Combine a can of tomato paste, a whole onion (chopped), two cups of rice, 4 cups of water, a splash of oil, dried parsley, chopped cilantro if possible, crushed black pepper, a rinsed can of corn if desired, salt to taste, and any other pepper seasonings you desire.
a.       Cook in a rice cooker or on a stove top until rice is cooked. The tomato paste in rice changes the consistency and slows cooking in a rice cooker, be sure to stir often to avoid burning on the bottom.
b.      All of the above ingredients can be found in most provincial centers in Mongolia. Cilantro is tricky, but it shows up in places too.
c.       Beans and bell peppers can also be added to this dish, but we usually don’t.
2.       Taco meat—Combine a kilo of either raw chopped chicken or beef (it is also possible to have the beef ground in most meat markets), 1-2 chopped onions, 2 chopped bell peppers, and a splash of oil.
a.       Sautee over a stove top in a frying pan. When meat is cooked, drain juices. Then add taco seasoning, cilantro if possible, and some water to cook the seasoning into the meat.
b.      Add more taco seasoning as needed.
c.       All of the above can be found in most provincial centers with the exception of taco seasoning.
3.       Salsa—Combine an appropriate amount of chopped tomatoes, yet another chopped onion, a few diced garlic cloves , chopped cilantro, a splash of low grade vinegar (Beware the power  of super concentrated Mongolian white vinegar. I usually use apple cider vinegar.), an appropriate amount of lime or lemon juice depending on what you have.
a.       Salsa is forgiving, and everyone likes it to their own taste and consistency. Add beans and corn if you want.  Use common sense regarding stronger ingredients like vinegar and lemon juice; you can always add more if needed.  
b.      I also recommend flavoring with red pepper or chopped hot peppers if you have them.
c.       Once the mixture is at the right consistency and taste for you, refrigerate for a few hours to blend the flavors. It gets better with age.
d.      All of the above can be found in most provincial centers.
4.       Cheese—shred whatever you can get your hands on. Our aimag center regularly has a variety of white cheese including Edam, Gouda, unknown Russian wheel, etc. All of the imported cheeses are expensive ranging from 17,000-22,000₮ a kilo, but it is totally worth it. If you don’t have cheese in your town or provincial center try, making friends with a store owner and then arranging with them to ship cheese from UB that you will buy.
5.       Sour Cream—The elusive ingredient. Any westerner living in Mongolia quickly learns to avoid trying unusual creamy dairy products, but sour cream is still a possibility. We do not always have sour cream in our provincial center, but when we do it is with the brand Сайхан. This brand offers a variety of flavored yogurt in kilo size packets. The sour cream flavor is blue with no extra ingredients in the picture labeled Зөөхий. Many stores that sell Mongolian dairy products also sell Mongolian sour cream by the kilo. I have always stuck with the сайхан brand because it tastes like American sour cream.  I haven’t had the Mongolian version which is called цөцгий.  

Combine all of these items in a large bowl and treat yourself!
Cooking disclaimer: I do not usually worry about specific amounts of individual ingredients when I cook, thus the lack of specific measurements. This works well if you are comfortable in your ability to use good cooking senses of smell and taste to reach the appropriate flavor. The exception to this is rice. The ratio of water to rice must be two to one.  In any event, taco bowls are a forgiving and delicious dish to have.

~Caleb 

Sunday, December 18, 2016

Ski Trip


Last weekend, a bunch of Khentii volunteers traveled to the capital to go skiing. Mongolia has one ski resort with a variety of slopes. The Sky Ski resort is located about 10 km outside the city. The resort offers a number of rental packages that are quite affordable. Ski rental for three hours was only 50,000₮ (a little less than $25).

I planned this outing with the intention of hitting the slopes in the middle of the day when the temperatures were predicted to be above zero. Really the cold wasn’t too bad. The only times that it was bitter was when one was rapidly flying down the beginner’s slope (or other slopes, but I wouldn’t know what that is like).

Sally and a number of our group had never been skiing before. She handled it very well. The only times she fell was dismounting from the ski lift: once by herself and once with my help when I knocked her over getting out of the lift at the wrong angle. Some of the others in our group had a harder time… well really only one person who got to ride the lift three times before throwing himself from it at the dismounting platform near the top in a mad attempt to escape.


As for me, this was my third time skiing and I was pleasantly surprised to see how easy it comes back even after an eight year hiatus. I was almost ready to hit the intermediate slope, but decided I would wait until my next skiing adventure.


After a fun filled trip we returned to the city and enjoyed a nice meal with a great group of friends.
A quick word about Ulaanbaatar in the winter: UB’s traffic is a profound problem. From what I understand, it is far worse than a lot of bigger cities in Asia. The city was built with a population framework of about a quarter million, but now the population is well over 1.5 million. It is honestly a lot quicker to walk to most destinations, but sometimes you still need to take a slow cab. With winter more people are taking taxis and that doesn’t help the situation at all. In addition to traffic, UB has a very serious problem related to smog. I will discuss this more in a later blog post, but for now travelers to UB during the winter need to be aware that the smog is extremely bad. UB in the winter is one of the most polluted cities in the world.


~Caleb