Tuesday, May 23, 2017

Alcohol in Mongolia

This is a challenging post to write, because it is a complex issue. I think the best way to handle this is to discuss the media and data before moving into the realm of personal experience.
Media evidence in the form of reports and studies is conflicting. The World Health Organization released its last report on alcohol in Mongolia in 2013. It found that, on average, adults ages 15+ consumed 6.9 liters of alcohol each year. 70% of these liters were in the form of spirits (vodka).  27% of the adult population reported heavy episodic drinking and 6.4% reported alcohol related disorders. Based on this data alone, Mongolia’s alcohol problem is significantly less than a number of countries including the US, Japan, Canada, South Korea, and Russia with a whopping 15.1 liters consumption per person.

This doesn’t seem so bad until you start looking between the lines. According to an NPR report from 2009, Mongolia had one store selling alcohol for every 270 people, thus leading the world in alcohol availability.  I can vouch for this, since you can purchase hard alcohol in almost every food store in our city, even small neighborhood shops. Prices for 750 ml of Vodka can range between $3-10 making it very affordable.

A second disturbing statistic is the rate of liver cancer deaths (63.2/100,000 people each year). This is twice as high as Mozambique, the runner up. There are a number of factors that can affect this rate, and alcohol may not be the primary cause, but there is generally a correlation between liver cancer and alcohol use.

In March of this year, a personal idol of mine, the Dalai Lama told John Oliver that he has been promoting the drinking of airag (fermented mare’s milk) in Mongolia as an alternative to hard liquor, thus leading to a decline in the rates of alcohol use in Mongolia. While it is true that airag has a much lower alcohol concentration, it is not as easy to come by in its off season. It is likely that the decrease in alcohol use in Mongolia over the past few decades is related to the economy improving until about 2013. Since the boom of 2013, the Mongolian economy has been getting weaker.

The data, aside from liver cancer and availability, is actually not too bad in comparison with a number of other countries including the US, but it is still a significant public health problem in Mongolia.


That captures the data. Now let’s tackle the issue from personal experience, alcohol is something that Sally and I have encountered a lot in our service. Often, teachers’ celebrations or social events involve drinking large amounts of alcohol usually in the form of shots of vodka. Drinking is such an important part of social events that it often seems disrespectful to refuse.  Mongolians love to toast and share a bottle of vodka with friends.

Over the course of my service, I have begun to recognize the signs of alcohol dependency among some of the men that I know, and wisdom has taught me to avoid drinking with them, because it would never end.  Service in Mongolia also means that you develop a lot of ways to avoid getting drunk at an event where the social pressure is to binge. These methods can be anything from tossing the shot over your shoulder to pretending to drink.

PC service in Mongolia means that you become accustom to being approached by drunks on the streets who are emboldened by their condition. Usually it is just harmless curiosity, but it is something that many volunteers deal with on a day-to-day basis. When I started my service, I would stop and have conversations out of respect for the older men, but now I don’t engage often to the point of quickly skipping around them before they can reach me to shake my hand.

Alcohol and the effects of alcohol are everywhere, even in the States, but in a culture where alcohol plays such a key role in important parties and events, it does seem like this is more of a public health issues than the data would suggest. Part of the reason is that there is a general lack of understanding of healthy drinking habits in Mongolia. If a bottle of vodka makes an appearance at a social event, then the entire bottle will be drunk. Usually there is another bottle hidden out of sight. The dangers of binging that has been drilled into the heads of American youth are not as widely discussed here, and moderation in drinking is not the norm among those that do drink.

In addition to poor drinking practices, the economy of Mongolia is not fairing as well as it did in 2013. The continual decline of the tugrik and issues with unemployment lead to an increase in dependence on alcohol.

However, the country recognizes that it has a problem with alcohol and a number of public incentives have been put into place to reduce drinking habits. Drunks are also viewed unfavorably in Mongolia, but there is still a woeful lack of treatment centers for people with addiction. A large percentage of the Mongolian population does not drink, and an additional percentage only drink in social settings. The issue is that these settings are often binge situations.

So to close out a delicate post, I would finish by saying that Mongolia is improving on this issue, but it is still a big enough part of society that PCVs in Mongolia will encounter alcohol issues on a regular basis.

~Caleb  





Reference sites:

http://www.npr.org/sections/goatsandsoda/2017/03/09/519226175/looking-into-the-horse-milk-story-that-the-dalai-lama-told-john-oliver

Tuesday, May 9, 2017

Close of Service


The end is near. Really it is less than three months away.  Sally and I have spent 23 months in Mongolia. We have seen two entire cycles around the sun. We are familiar with the weather, the seasons, and the culture of this place that has been our home for so long.
Sally and I both got a haircut at COS

Last week Sally and I traveled to UB to attend our last Peace Corps seminar. It was the last time that our cohort will be in one place together. Many of our friends who we met in May two years ago we will not see in this country again. When we left for Mongolia so long ago there were 74 of us. Now for a wide variety of reason there are only 54. 

Coming to Mongolia felt like closing a book on a chapter of our lives. As our service comes to an end it is clear that yet another chapter is coming to a close. Our time in Mongolia has gone by slowly and quickly. It has been a time of trial and ease. A literal constant state of adjustment.

Our Close of Service (COS) seminar took place at a nice resort a short ways from UB. During the seminar we were briefed on a lot of the logistics of our upcoming departure as well as a number of sessions devoted to how to integrate successfully into American society with cryptic titles like “Resume Building, Elevator Pitches, etc.”  COS was also where we were informed of our departure date from Mongolia. Our cohort is leaving the country in three groups during the summer. Sally and I will be departing from Mongolia in July making our total time in country around 26 months. For Security reasons, I will not post the exact date, but close friends and family are welcome to message me. 
Pictures of the countryside around the resort. This stream still has ice.

Sally, Kyra, and Feebee

The mountains looked like Mordor

COS was a time of great food, a chance to renew relationships, make promises about the states, but most of all a celebration of our collective cohort’s success and growth.  At the end of the seminar, we received a certificate from our Country Director and took a picture before the joint flags of Mongolia, America, and Peace Corps.


Our last picture with our entire cohort of volunteers, "The COSing 54"

On Saturday, we departed from UB on a now familiar bus to our city. Spring has arrived in torrents of sand and wind; slowly the rolling hills of Khentii are turning green yet again.  We stopped at the half way point in the small village of Tsenkhermandal. With nearly two years of traveling the same stretch of road from the capital to our provincial center, we’ve had the chance to watch some of the shops flourish and die. A mini-mart that was a personal favorite in this halfway point didn’t last through the winter.
Pics with friends, our Khentii group won a prize at an evening event.
Even though this is the beginning of the end, there is still a lot to look forward to in the future. Sally
and I are in the process of planning a short summer trip to the Gobi desert, an area of Mongolia we have yet to see. We are also planning a longer trip when we leave the country. This trip will take us through a number of countries in central/eastern Europe.  From Europe we will fly back to our home in Birmingham, thus circumnavigation the globe in 26 months! Look for more information on both of these trips soon!

Workwise, we are in the process of finishing some of the classes and clubs we teach and are preparing for the summer which is usually much less busy than the school year for volunteers who work at schools.  I am currently working with my teachers to plan for an English Summer camp at my school.

But mostly at this point with just three months to go, we are excited to return to America. It has been a long separation from our homeland and family.


~Caleb